Travelling in the African Bush with Diabetes

After my 2-week journey through Zambia, Botswana and Namibia I could eliminate the last doubt I had… even insulin-dependent diabetics can travel in the African Bush – and enjoy the pure wilderness!!

Marion, a German nurse for diabetes was shocked when she found out: “I would never let my patients do something like that!” she proclaimed! However Brigitte, an Austrian pharmacist, at least knew about this and defended it by saying: “Yes, I’ve heard of this before, diabetics have gone on well-organized hikes up Mount Everest… so why not Africa?” My journey through Africa has proved Marion wrong – diabetics can do anything they want even African Safaris, as long as they go on a well-organised trip with the right precautions…

My journey began, in Livingstone, Zambia, a small town named after the famous English explorer David Livingstone. I met up with the tour group at the Zambezi Waterfront, a lodge situated near the Zambezi River. My tour group consisted of; Manfred and Marion – a doctor and nurse specializing in diabetes, Ingrid and Michaela – two ladies working in the insurance business, Werner and Brigitte – he is an engineer and she is the above-mentioned pharmacist, Doris and Erik – a well travelled, young, retired couple… and of course Reinhard (called Rhino) our guide!

Rhino was not only our tour guide but was also the driver of our 4×4 Toyota Landcruiser! This Landcruiser had huge windows to look out of and it also had a trailer attached to the back of the vehicle – this was our safari vehicle that we travelled in for 2500 km along the sandy roads, riverbeds, and endless ‘seeming’ country roads… of course passing small villages every now and then.

Our Toyota has two 80 litre tanks for petrol and unfortunately no boot meaning that our luggage was limited to only 12 kg per person – which was actually more then enough! Our Botswana Wildlife Breakaway tour was a semi-participation safari, which basically means that all clients have to do their part to create a successful tour by helping out with general tasks throughout the safari. This meant that, daily, we had to place our luggage on the roof-rack and tie it tightly (a 20 kg hardtop suitcase would have been difficult to handle & dangerous), put up our own tent, help with meal preparations and of course clean the dishes!

This type of adventure is therefore not suitable for tourists, who enjoy their holidays lying on the beach or by the pool. But then again these types of tourists probably wouldn’t want to have an experience in the African Bush for 14 days anyway!

On the first day of my adventure I realise that I am lucky that I regarded the tips for Diabetics on travel… I fortunately had all my necessary utensils with me (Insulin, needles, measuring equipment and dextrose). Another couple’s luggage got lost somewhere between Europe and Livingstone… I was hoping that this would only take a day or two to be sorted out however; it took a whole week until they had their entire luggage back!

Eventually we got into our vehicle and started our safari… After a short drive we arrive at the official border and river crossing of the Zambezi River, river crossing is done by ferry. The ferry didn’t look very trustworthy, but due to the lack of other possibilities as well as the fact that so many other vehicles are waiting to cross the river we had to cross the river this way and were very happy that Rhino got us all across very safely. It only took him 20 minutes – for Africa this is extremely fast! “God made the time, he never mentioned anything about punctuality or even rush” – this is the first thing we’ve learned on our long journey.

After two hours we arrived at our first destination: Toro Lodge on the Chobe River. Once we got there we immediately went on a long boat drive along the Chobe River. The Chobe River is 1 ½ times the size of the island La Corse and a haven for elephants, lions, hippos, antelopes, Kudus and many other types of animals. 440 different bird species live in this hideaway alone…

The boat allowed us to have one of the best and most comfortable ways to watch the many different animals on the water’s edge and in the water. Elephant herds with up to 60 animals come to the river to drink – we saw a few male elephants which had crossed the river to eat. Some of the tourists got so close to the lions that I started to admire them being so chilled out – But luckily these animals were more interested in eating then us which let us get some amazing photos! The crocodiles, hippos, kudus and birds didn’t get the attention that they should have on this journey, as we were too busy concentrating on the Elephants and Lions!

During our drive back to the camp, we witnessed (for the first time) Africa’s breathtaking sunsets. As soon as the sun sets on the horizon, the temperature drops dramatically (I was travelling in June which is the winter time in the Southern Hemisphere). In the winter months the mosquitoes are less and we Europeans are more used to this kind of temperature… But otherwise there are huge differences in the temperatures from night to day. In the evening, around the campfire, one can see each other’s breath and during lunch time, you are happy with every breath of wind you can get to cool you down! I found it incredible that in the middle of the African bush, there is a camp like Toro Lodge with pool and bar – situated at the shores of the Chobe River! If you haven’t booked a chalet but a tent here, you should of course always have a look, what is in front of your ‘door step’ before leaving it. Otherwise it is easily possible that you are facing a hippo!

The next morning we start our long journey – 410 km to the south. Our destination for the day is Planet Baobab; even though the Makgadikgadi Pans are very appealing due to their endless canopy of blue skies, it is the Baobab trees that totally fascinate me. Baobab trees are African legends! The story goes that when god made earth, he gave each animal a plant to take care of. The Hyena was given the baobab tree. She was so devastated that she put the tree upside down into the earth. Every single one of these strange trees, which are normally older than 4000 years, looks like a carrot that has been jammed into the ground upside down. However, its use is so much more diverse – the tree consists to 75% of water (which the Bushmen knew how to find and get) as well as the honey. A bird normally shows them where to find the honey in the tree, and with lots of experience and climbing they can find the water in the trees! The water stays nice and cool in the trees’ hollow sections. One can even make nets and strings out of the baobab’s bark, which is also the remedy against the poison that is in the heart of the Baobab tree. The Bushmen use this poison to hunt. The tree doesn’t have a core, such as other trees and is hollow in the inside – it serves as a great nesting site for birds, bats and also snakes. It can also come in handy as a welcoming hideout when you are been attacked by an angry rhino.

The British colonialists used the baobab’s spaciousness during the 1st World War – they placed a toilet in one of them and another one was converted into a prison with the help of bars. Even today the baobab trees attract royal interest. The most famous group of baobab trees was named after the artist Thomas Baines, who painted them in 1862. Fascinated by this work, Price Charles, flew to Africa and painted Baines Baobabs again – with water colours and a royal hand!

Back to the normal people (us) – every 200 km we have to go through ‘foot and mouth’ disease controls which is on the borders and on the straight roads. Of course one can doubt its efficiency but we all know about big famines in Africa and the disease problems so, of course the locals are worried about their cattle…

Civilisation in minimized – anyone coming on this trip has to live with no cellphone reception, no TV and no internet. Sometimes even the electricity is only available for limited times from a generator during the day. One can see that Africa has arrived in the 21st century when you see that beside traditional villages (made of the country’s wood) one finds a vehicle graveyards, plastic chairs and even ‘mokoros’ made of synthetics in the most remote corners of this continent!

Tips for clients with Diabetes
Here is some information for the 4 countries I have visited: South Africa, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia:
In the cities you can find pharmacies and hospitals as well as private clinics where you can buy general medication with cash (insulin and oral diabetic medication). In any case, take extra medication with you, as – mentioned above because time is different in Africa and you may have to wait to get your medicine…. A cooling system (like Frio) is advisable, its pretty cool everywhere and cool water is available but there is a lack of electricity and fridges in places.

Another tip, not only for diabetics: Take enough spare batteries for cameras and video cameras as even Spar supermarkets can’t always help out. Manfred – was very clever – he didn’t only travel with a GPS, which documented our routes, but also had a solar battery charger with him!